What kind of turtle do you have or would you recommend to get?

	What kind of turtle do you have or would you recommend to get? I am thinking about getting a turtle for my boys. What kind would you recommend and what do you need to take care of that specific type? Thank You! Asked By: jandismommie - 2/23/2009

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All this information is very good! i actually agree with all of it, and the info. and care tips is good. red eared slider? - BIG turtle, but they are also loving and playful and a fun species to have. Red eared sliders are basically as common as cats or dogs. But they require a lot more hard work (labor basically) to keep than cats or dogs. I'm not going to lie, they are at least 5 times more demanding then cats or dogs. And their setup is about 10 times more expensive than cats or dogs as well. It runs into the neighborhood of about $500 the first year for an adult turtle, and then about $100 every additional year for stuff like filter equipment, food, light bulbs, and calcium supplements) trust me you want to start with an adult, even though it is much more expensive, an adult is very hardy. And a baby is very fragile and would probably be killed by your children accidentally. So an adult, by far better) I would like to say though although turtles do make great family pets, turtles are very demanding, and you need to make SURE that you are willing to make the commitment. Not to sound like your mother or anything, but you need to have a stable job, because if you lose a job, the turtle would have to be given away, and it breaks my heart seeing family pets given away because the owners could not afford their supplies. I am being brutally honest, turtle supplies are dang expensive. So you need to make sure you have the money, because they do require a LOT of money. Oh yes. I was talking about aquatic turtles for most of the time, but keep in mind Tortoises are also expensive ( because they do require large pens) But actually some species, like the russian tortoise and box turtle are easier to keep, and may be right if you have children!! > sorry, a lightbulb just popped out of my head, lol. But, even though i do agree some species of tortoises are a lot less expensive to keep, they still require commitment due to the fact that they can very easily outlive their owners. So tortoises are definetly close family pets, and will probably more than likely live through 3 or more generations of families. So if you decided to get a tortoise in the near future, it would probably still be around to see your childrens' children. So again, the commitment has got to be there. Turtles and Tortoises overall make wonderful pets to owners that can provide them with loving care and financial care as well. By the way. Aquatic turtles absolutly hate being handled, so it would probably NOT be ok to have your children pet an aquatic turtle. it would be much safer to pet a tortoise. And a tortoise wouldn't mind, but a turtle would probably dislike it and get annoyed. So if you plan on having the children pet the animal, please cancel out aquatic turtles, because that would very easily stress them out. Just an example, of how each setup is different. No setup is really 'cheaper' or 'better'. They are both different in their own ways, and just depends on personal preference and willingness i guess...... Aquatic setups http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t65/TurtlePhoto_Album/TurtlePics003.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2334/2156078980_fe06f149ee.jpg http://farm1.static.flickr.com/157/338514701_c245123eb3.jpg?v=0 http://www.fishpondinfo.com/photos/reptiles/tanks/mike1.jpg Land setups http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g206/Henry_flash/table5.jpg http://www.russiantortoisepictures.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=2982&g2_serialNumber=2 http://farm1.static.flickr.com/56/116345810_85d76ab1a6.jpg?v=0 some very good websites to explore http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/ http://www.russiantortoise.org/ PLEASE RESEARCH if you would like to care for any type of animal, including turtles and tortoises. They really are a lifetime commitment. Answered By: Veronika S - 2/23/2009

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I would suggest a red-eared slider which is a very popular turtle in the pet trade. Whenever working with aquatic turtles you will need to make sure that the aquarium space is kept extremely clean and that hands are always washed after handling the turtles. I have a soft spot for russian tortoises which are a small species of tortoise with fairly easy requirements. I added links below of their caresheets. One thing is important to think about though...red eared sliders can live for 20 to 40 years if properly cared for and russian tortoises can outlive their owners so please be sure that these animals will be well cared for into the future if their novelty to your children eventually wears out. Never release pets into the wild Russian tortoise: <<http://www.russiantortoise.org/care_sheet.htm> Red-eared slider: <<http://www.wnyherp.org/care-sheets/turtles/red-ear-slider.php> Source(s): A lot of research on the subject and I have a degree in Biology and Environmental Science Answered By: wapsilady - 2/23/2009

I'm recommending RES (Red Eared Slider) more than 5 inchies. It's a semi-aquatic type. It's a very common type of turtles for pet and worldwide. It's easily adaptable and doesn't get sick easily. How old your boys are? Less 5 inchies RES carry a bactery which will harm children under 5 years old. It needs sunbath, put rocks inside the pool so that It can climb up and bath the sunlight. It's an omnivorous, so it can eat vegetables and meats (like fish, cricket, worm, etc). It also eat pellets. U need to change the water everydays. U can put UVB and UVA lights to keep the aquarium's temperature on days and close it on night. For me, I just put them on the yard so they can bask sunlight. I'm suggesting to read some articles about how to take care RES. like : http://www.redearslider.com./ is one of them. Peace Out. Source(s): http://www.redearslider.com./ Answered By: Bloated B - 2/23/2009

I prefer painted turtles to sliders, esp western painter turtles. It depends what part of the country you're from. To do it right, it's not gonna be cheap. I recommend skipping an aquarium, and go straight for a rubbermaid stock tank. I'd also recommend it on a cement floor, because it's going to get heavy. You're going to need an aquarium heater that will keep the water at 80-82 degrees. A guard to protect that heater from damage. You'll also need at least 1 canister filter, a magnum 350 would be good. Also a spare filter, soak the old filter in bleach water and swap the filters weekly. Those 2 filters will last for years. They need a basking spot. I piled flat rocks in the middle, but if you don't have access to free flat rocks you may want to consider other options. After having aquatic turtles for 20 years or so, I can highly recommend the active UV + heat. http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=435 There are similar products out there that may be a few dollars cheaper, but they don't last, and you wind up buying them again and again. You'll also need a clamp lamp or fixture with a ceramic base. Don't skimp on this, trust me. The plastic base clamp lamps are garbage. The lamp I recommend is a mercury vapor lamp. They can't be dimmed. So you'll need some way to make sure the basking site is 88F-90F. And some way to adjust the distance between the lamp and the basking site. I hung the clamp lamp from a chain from the ceiling. Of course, you'd want to use a very secure method of attaching the lamp to the chain, as you really don't want the fixture falling into the water. I used zip ties to keep the cord out of the way. Sounds expensive? It is. But it's the best way. Skimping will only wind up costing more in the long run. Trust me. Vet care is expensive, and just buying pet turtle after turtle that dies in a year (Because of poor equipment, or poor care.) is irresponsible. I'd also recommend a python no spill clean and fill kit. It's a kit that attaches to your faucet and makes weekly cleanings a LOT easier. http://www.amazon.com/Python-No-Spill-Clean-Fill/dp/B000255NXC Trust me, it's worth every penny. Soft shell turtles are also a very rewarding pet to keep, but are more for advanced keepers. They wind up costing a lot more than painted turtles in the long run, as they need bigger tanks, better water quality, and they eat a lot more. Source(s): 20 years with aquatic turtles. 10 Years with desert torts. 10 Years with box turtles. 20 years with king snakes 10 years with corn snakes. Answered By: caz223 - 2/23/2009

I assume you are wanting an easy starter turtle for an indoors setup? My favorite for that situation is a diamondback terrapin. If you buy yours captive-born, freshwater raised (and I can recommend an excellent online breeder with whom I have done business in the past) they are very hardy and easy to keep--in my opinion even more so than the commonly recommended red-eared slider. They've also got the friendliest personalities I've seen and are kind of unique-looking. They don't get any bigger than the red-eared sliders as adults either--9 to 12 inches long as adults. Another kind I like is the pearl river map turtle and their care is baically he same. For this kind of turtle, you could start with a 10 or 20 gallon tank for a baby and eventually grow to a 120 gallon one. The water temperature should be 70 to 77 degrees, and that's room temp for most people so you probably don't need a heater unless you keep your house cold. They'll need a completely dry basking area where they can sit under a light and dry off, including the bottom shell. This area must be at least 10 degrees warmer, ideally 90 degrees, so you'll need to shine a heat lamp on it. ZooMed's urtle-tuff halogen bulb screwed into a 8.5 or 10 inch dome reflector with a ceramic socket is great for this. It's splash-proof so you don't hav to worry about the bulb shattering into your tank and it puts out good heat. They should also have a UVB bulb as they use the UVB rays to make vitamin D which they need to be able to absorb calcium and keep their shells hard and strong. A 12 inch (or for your eventual 120 gallon tank, 24 inch) ReptiSun 10.0 bulb in a reflector will work nicely. Plug these two lights into a timer and set it so they'll be on 14 to 16 hours a day. That's how long the sun is up in the peak of summer, so that'll set a good day/night cycle for them. The water needs to be filtered well. The rule of thumb is 5 gallons of water per inch of turtle if its under 4 inches long and 10 gallons per inch after that, and the filter needs to be rated for twice or three times that much. So for a 3 inch diamondback terrapin, you'd need a 15 gallon tank and a filter rated for 30 or 45 gallons. For a 5 inch turtle, you'd need a 50 gallon tank and a filter rated for 100 to 150 gallons. Also the water needs to be changed once a week and the turtles should be fed in a separate bowl to avoid messes in their tank. My favorite substrate is crushed coral. It looks nice and is perfectly safe for turtles to chew on. It'll even provide them with a constant calcium source if they want it. Wild diamondback terrapins will actually chew on coral in their habitat for that reason. If you prefer, you can use gravel but make sure it's river rocks, not aquarium gravel. Aquarium gravel are usually actually large rocks that have been shattered at the plant, so they have sharp edges that can do damage if your turtle eats one. River rocks, by contrast, have been taken from river beds where they have been worn down by running water for decades and have smooth edges so they usually just pass on through when eaten. Also, if you choose this substrate, you'll need to provide a cuttlebone for the turtles to chew on. If one is not provided and turtles feel the need to eat calcium or wear their beaks down they oftentimes turn to chewing/eating gravel and cage accessories excessively. Diamondback terrapins are mostly carnivorous, so I feed mine live feeder minnows, earthworms, bloodworms, and gutloaded crickets. I supplement that with ReptoMin sticks, cichlid food, and ZooMed's naural aquatic turtle food and some greens like watercress, turnip greens, kale, endive, and occasionally romaine. These guys are BIG eaters! Feed the babies 3.5 inches long and under once a day 6 days a week. (They don't get to eat everyday in the wild and actually need some "fasting" days to clear out their gut completely and help prevent parasites, so I always recommend NOT feeding one day a week.) Turtles larger than 3.5 inches should only be fed 3 times a week. The really nice thing about keeping turtles is that you don't need a petsitter when you go on vacation. If they're being fed well/regularly, a couple weeks without food is not going to do them any harm at all. Just stock up their tank with fish right before you go, do a water change right before you go, and leave their lights on a timer and they're fine for up to 2 weeks. Then feed them and do a water change as soon as possible when you get back. The downside to turtles as pets is they're expensive because you have to grow with them and they require expensive lightbulbs. You can't put a baby 3-inch turtle into a 120 gallon tank and you can't put a 90 gallon filter on a 10 gallon tank as it will make a current that's too strong for a baby turtle to swim against. Also the fact that a properly-cared for turtle will likely live 40 to 100 years is a blessing for the pet lover but a curse for some because they mean a lifetime com Source(s): been keeping a variety of turtles for 11 years Answered By: Kame - 2/23/2009

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