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How do you fix the heating coil on a whirlpool dryer?

I have a whirlpool dryer that isnt producing heat while the drum tumbles. I have tested the coil and get 0 resistance. The thermal fuse also gives 0 resistance. what resistance should the thermastats give at room temp? I assume 0 and they do. Im lost on this one. Power goes to everything but it just wont work. Any appliance repair gurus out there know what i can try?

Asked By: powerthirst2 - 1/7/2011
Best Answer - Chosen by Asker
Ok I'm in the UK, but guessing that the Whirlpool dryers in the Us are similar.

Big problems with Whirlpool dryers at the moment and all related to not heating problems.

1st As an Electrical Engineer your measurements mean nothing to me (we use different equipment)

The most likely cause of your problem is faulty thermostats. There are 2 of them just above the heater assembly, they are wired in line and when one of them goes open circuit, there is no power to the heater.

On Whirlpool Driers (Dryers) the most probable cause of no heat is 1st faulty stats (thermostats) and 2nd faulty heater assembly.

My advice (because I am in the UK and US speck is different) go on to eBay Us and search for “Whirlpool Drier thermostats or Whirlpool Drier Heating elements”

You will find many sellers who can tell you what to check and how.

Here is something else you can try. I can't for legal reasons tell you to do this.

The thermostats each have 1 wire in and 1 wire out, I as an Engineer often to check stats, pull the 2 wires of the stat and join them together, so bypassing the stat. If after joining the 2 wires together on both stats, you get heat, then the problem is surely faulty stats.

So that's 2 stats, each with 1 wire in and 1 wire out. I have heard (more legal stuff) If the wires of stat 1 are pulled off and joined together and the wires of stat 2 are pulled off and joined together (don't mix the wires of stat 1 and 2 )

And the heater starts to work. Then You only need a new stat kit

If the heater doesn't work with the stats bridged, then it is likely that a new heater assembly will fix the problem.

I know this wont apply to the US as I am in the UK, But I met a woman this morning who paid £25 for a part about $43 and got her husband to fit it. She was shocked to learn, I would have supplied and fitted the part for £24.

The moral of the story, If you know a good and genuine Engineer, it is often cheaper to get them to do the job.

By Aiden Mackle of www.aidenmackle.com
Answered By: AIDEN - 1/7/2011
Additional Answers ()
I don't think you're using the multitester correctly. The coil is a resistance element, much like the heating element in your toaster,and it should never read zero ohms. If the element has burned through (the usual cause of failure to heat) it should read infinity as ohms. If it's OK, I'd guess around 300 but that's just a guess. Find the ceramic bus to which the 2 ends of the heating coil are attached, and set the meter to "ohms". touch one probe to each end of the coil. If you read zero or nearly zero, disconnect both ends of the coil, and test the coil again. The appliance repair shop will probably sell and install a new coil for $ 50 - 75,
Source(s):
tinkerer
Answered By: Doug Boyd - 1/7/2011
Did you visually inspect the heating coil? It looks like a giant light bulb filament. On my Wp it on a platform inside of a chute, which can be removed by removing a couple screws and unplugging a couple wires. {and just like a light bulb filament, it can melt apart.} Very easy to replace. When I did it, the appliance parts store recommended replacing the fuses too, so I did {without testing anything - so cannot advice you there.}
Source(s):
been there, done that
Answered By: SumDude - 1/7/2011
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