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I'm Buying a New Car But There Is a Major Issue?

Okay, I went in and started looking for a new car at a Nissan dealership a couple days ago. I knew I wanted to get one of 2 models and I did extensive research on Nissan, Honda, and Toyota midsized sedans and SUV's that would be affordable to me. I used truecar.com to get a good price quote(2600 below invoice) and my plan was to use some solid negotiating skills to get it down another $500 or so.

So, I test drove both models, like the SUV more, and so we got started with negotiating. Pretty much, we spent about an hr, and I was able to get it down about $400 below my truecar.com quote, so I got it down to $3000 below invoice. Pretty good BUT....

Then, I said, I want to trade in my old car, he took the keys, appraised it, and told me they'd only give me $300 back for it. I knew that it was an old car with rust, scratches, some dents in 2 places, stained carpeting, but it still runs well, drives fine, and it's probably tradeable for 750-900 I think.

So, I ended up signing at the bottom line for the final price we negotiated. But, since they didn't have the car in my color, they told me I'd have to wait a couple business days while they got it from another dealership.

So, I HAVE NOT GONE THROUGH THE FINANCING DEPT. YET AND I STILL HAVE MY OLD CAR IN MY POSSESSION. I called some people and found out that I have not signed a legally binding contract. This means that I can decide to change or cancel the original offer b/c it is not a contract, it's just like we put a final price on a napkin.

Come today, I did some research, and I found out that the 2011 model of the vehicle I almost have was recalled just a week ago. I was not made aware of this and I even told the salesguy that I knew the '08 and '09 models were recalled but he said hey, 2010 and 2011 are fine, but he either lied or doesn't know jack about the car.

My question is what should I do? I plan on going back to the dealership on Monday whether or not the car is there or not. I plan on asking the salesguy if he has something to tell me about recent news about this 2011 model. If he acts like nothing is wrong, I will ask to speak to his sales or fleet manager, I will show my internet printed story about the recall and I will tell them I have 4 options:
1. I say forget it and end the deal and ask for my $500 credit deposit I put down back.
2. I want to trade up to the model with more features/packages at the same price I was going to get the base model for.
3. You bring the overall price down a couple hundred and give me close to 1,000 for my trade-in
4. You bring the price down by at least 500-700 and give me 500 for the trade-in.

What do you guys think? I know these guys need my business but I also risk not getting anything. I have other options but I already had a solid deal but the lies and slight deception has me p****d off now.

Any responses over the next day or day and a half will be much appreciated. We all buy cars and we regular people need to stick together and help each other out against these greedy salespeople.
Additional information: The recall was for a power steering issue. I am concerned whether or not the car I would be getting hasn't been fixed or if it has been fixed, I plan on asking this before giving my 4 options.

2. This is an AWD option that is probably already a good value although I think the dealer is making some profit since it's a 2011 and they are tryin to get it off their lot. I tend to want to try to see what they will do for me since they have provided decent customer service up to now.
Additional info(12/11 9:30am)

3. Right now, the financing option is 0?PR for 60 months, 290 per month.
4. I do plan on calling the service dept on Monday morning and asking them if the new cars have been fixed and worked on as it relates to the recall, which is a power steering issue before I proceed further.
5. I talked about a recall of this same model with the salesperson in 2008 and 2009 and he said if those were resolved, then the 2010 and 2011 models shouldn't have any issues.
6. As a car salesperson, you have to be knowledgeable about what you are selling. Whether it was a lie or just him being stupid, it's not an excuse. If I did my research, why isn't the guy who is selling me the car doing his research?
7. I've spent about $500 on my car this year over a front headlight issue and a cylinder issue, I had a V6 and it was down on 5 cylinders and would stall when I started driving it after a minute. I've put $500 in that car and yes, there's some rust near the wheels because of salt, some scratches, a few dents, and stained carpeting in the front of the vehicle. But, the car still runs fairly well, engine is fine, the car gets you place to place.

8. I heard that they will appraise the car as close as $1000 below the actual value that it can be traded in so they can make a profit that way. So, if I got it for $300, then it should really be worth closer to $1,000. It's only got 114K miles on it too.

Asked By: AG - 12/10/2011
Best Answer - Chosen by Asker
The recall and the deal are two separate things. If you try to combine them it may blow up in your face.

You're at $3000 below invoice. That's insanely good and I'm sure there is little profit in it for the dealer. yes, they want to sell it but they're not going to move much further on the price.

Your trade sounds like a piece of junk. $300 means they're just taking it off your hands. There is no upside for the dealer on your trade, they will just wholesale it for about that price. If you want more money, sell it yourself. I'm sure there is someone out there that needs a $750 rusted out hooptie.

Playing "Trick The Car Saleman" might backfire on you, so be careful. Sales people are usually not told about recalls. Its not their job to know that. I sell new and used cars for a living and I have no idea about recalls. We have a service dept and factory trained techs to handle that. If someone was trying to play me and I found out about it, I'd be p****d off. Deal with your salesperson honestly and be forthright and they will deal with you that way.

At this point you are probably at the end WRT pricing and deals. There is little to no room to move. You either take this deal AS IS, or walk. If I were your salesperson, I'd give you the ultimatum and put the pressure on you to decide. Car dealers don't need your business as much as you think. The sales person will make very little money on this deal so no more reason for them to fight for you.

You are demanding another $700-1000 more in discounts. It's probably not there. The next negotiation should take less than 15 mins, with you either buying or walking.

Time to step up or step off.
Answered By: Uncle Bo - 12/11/2011
Additional Answers ()
It's a recall, the dealer will fix it. That doesn't make it an undesirable car.
Answered By: Scott H - 12/11/2011
The recall issue should be discussed with a service adviser in the service department prior to your purchase...if you are satisfied with the answers there, proceed with the deal. The price is right, so if you want the car, buy it. As for the trade in, it is only $300 so, pull the trade out of the deal and sell it outright on craigslist...someone will buy it. You should go to your own bank and find out their interest rates and terms on the loan before going into the finance department at the dealership. Signing a bad loan at the dealership can cost you thousands of dollars...many dealerships sell cars at break even or a loss and make a killing of the financing! Good luck to you!
Answered By: rowdynation - 12/11/2011
You probably signed a purchase agreement and it's not a binding document. I do believe you could have done much better on the deal since the 2012s are now out. (By the way, there is no such amount as "dealer invoice". Dealer invoice is the price the dealer would like to sell and still make a ?rofit on. The dealer is still making money on the deal.) As far as your trade, if that's what they're giving you for it, you'd be better off to keep it and sell it on your own. Lastly, why are you financing for 60 months? It never makes sense for anyone to finance for more than 48 months. Can you not afford a 48-month payment? If not, you shouldn't be buying the vehicle.

The recall should have already been addressed by the dealer. Ask to see the work ticket on the vehicle. If they are on the "up and up" they will gladly show you the ticket.
Source(s):
father worked at car dealerships for more than 20 years
Answered By: nascar88gyrl - 12/11/2011
I took 0?or 60 months b/c I wanted 0?PR. I could pay it off with cash if I want to but I want to build my credit up. Anyways, I will gladly pay it off in less than 5 yrs. That's just the deal I am willing to take. I could pay off $1,000 per month if I want to based on the money I have saved up, so that's not the issue.

I will follow your advice about the work ticket. That will help me out a lot. I think I got a solid deal, I really do. Not a lot of SUV's with AWD that pay under 20,000 no matter if it is 3 weeks until the end of 2011 or not. If it's Jan. 2011, I would have to pay probably 1500 more so even if it is almost a year old, there's almost no miles on it, and the AWD option does cost an extra 1500 bucks anyways.

I'm just a bit upset about the trade-in value. I think I can use this recall as a way to basically tell them like this:

Listen, if you cannot show me a work ticket for this vehicle, then we can do 1 of 2 things:
1. I can say forget this and get my refund for my deposit.
2. You can give me fair trade in value and do a check-up on my vehicle before I take it off the lot and provide me the papers or work ticket showing that it was fixed.
Answered By: wmirten - 12/11/2011
I would find a diffrent car that does not have any problems. There is no need for more confrontation in life.
Answered By: pjd - 12/10/2011
I say #1 and if your looking for cars i highly recommend the jeep cj
Answered By: Ying - 12/10/2011
I think you have a good head on your shoulders and you have the brain too, you know what to do and this is just to help you confer the action to take. take it all, have all the information in hand even if you do not need to use it. you sound strong enough to handle this but have some one in the wings to back you up if you can just in case they try to strong-arm you. go for it and good luck
Answered By: Martinus - 12/10/2011
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