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What type of power resistor do I need for my occupancy sensor?

Our kitchen has a tracklight system with an occupancy sensor. Until recently we were using halogen lights, at a load of 300W @ 120VAC. In an effort to save heat, power ($), and look (and feel) pretty cool, while being conscientious all around, I decided to treat myself to an LED lamp whenever one of the halogens burnt out. This was all fine until the last one went. "Yay!" I thought. Now the room is indeed brighter, and a lot cooler temperature wise. But alas, the sensor wouldn't turn the lights completely off in the dark. After getting tired of keeping 1 of the bulbs a halogen, I decided I wanted all of them to match, and an educated guess and call to the store led me to the assumption that the the total load (now a whopping 16W for all 6 floods), simply wasn't enough to drive the sensor. Sure enough, the minimum load for the sensor needs to be 25W. The store suggested I call the manufacturer for a power resistor. They don't seem to care to answer. So I went back to the store, and wouldn't you know, they have a replacement sensor that does support LEDs now. I begrugingly plopped down the full fare again, on a new sensor. Only to discover that it requires a ground OR a neutral in order to work, as there is a low current drain on the device in order to compensate for the low draw of the LEDs. Alas, this is an older home, that was built before codes (US) required either of those. *Please note before answering: The switchbox currently has 1 black (Hot) and 1 Switchleg to the fixture (White). Yes codes have changed since then, but at this point it's NOT cost effective to retrofit wiring to the box. Therefore, hiring an electrician at this point would sort of defeat the savings of the LEDs in the short term* I guess I am back at looking for a Power resistor. I see LOTS of 20W power resistors out there. Each of the six LED floodlights bulb is rated at 3W, and .4A. But I must be concerned with Ohms and 120VAC, yes? Which resistor should I look at? Or is there another alternative? Thanks so much in advance, and happy holidays.

Asked By: Goofball - 12/28/2012
Best Answer - Chosen by Asker
A "hack" such as what you propose might work, but you won't be using UL-rated components; it won't be "to code"; and might start a fire if you're not very careful... More
Answered By: Joe - 12/28/2012
Additional Answers (1)
Not a very power saving arrangement when your lights are continuously using 25W of power 24/7/365... More
Answered By: ALEX - 1/1/2013
 
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